buckner [preview].

So in thinking about our next climb, I came across another fantastic north face climb that would be spectacular and fit right in with our north face theme we have going this year–the north face (or north face couloir) of Mt. Buckner. After quickly reading a bit about the climb, this is appealing to me in every way. Let's see–it involves camping up at the base of the Sahale Glacier at the top of Sahale Arm, would allow for a quick tag of Sahale's summit (which I missed without a rope by about twenty feet last year), would be climbing an incredible and steep north face route with views back to the expansive Boston and Inpiration Glaciers, Forbidden Peak and the Eldorado Ice Cap and a stunning panaroma of the entire Cascade Pass region of the North Cascades (which I have decided is my favourite climbing spot in the world). It looks like it offers an alpine experience tough to match anywhere in the Cascades.

Oh, and apparently July is prime climbing season for this peak (which I was initially afraid might have already passed). Oh, and it's also a "nine-thousander" (9080' to be exact–forty feet higher than Mt. Maude–and there is a limited number of non-volcanic peaks in Washington higher than nine thousand feet which is what makes them special). But to avoid the crowds and permit issues at Sahale, Matthew and I might have to try for a weekday climb which is fine. It looks like it would be a long two days but doable, or what I might suggest climbing ultra-light (i.e. bivy gear only) and instead of camping at Sahale–going from the car, tagging Sahale's summit then dropping down to the Boston Glacier to bivy after traversing around Boston Peak (where it has been said that there is a genuine feeling of remoteness and discovery as a climber crosses the Boston Glacier to the base of the north face routes). That would mean a long first day, but would put us within an hour of the north face and make it a much easier summit day.

Of course the other option would be to climb up from Boston Basin, up the Quien Sabe Glacier to the Boston-Sahale Col to bivy. But we would still end up descending via Sahale Arm (at least that is what appears to be the best option) so we'll see.

I am excited in any case.

And for those that have not been to the this area, this is the view from the Quien Sabe Glacier looking back at a piece of that panorama I mentioned above from where we could possibly camp (the Sahale-Boston Col–mountains everywhere) ....