Sunday, February 8, 2009

climb list 2009.


Gathering beta for climbs and such that I want to do this year and do not want to forget so I am posting them here. I will add to this as I continue to search.

1) Ruth Mountain - the views look staggering – at the über-impressive north face of Shuksan (see, uh, photo at left which pretty much displays in a single photo why the North Cascades are my home and like no other mountain range in the US 48) and into the heart of the southern Picketts, this now tops the list for a spring climb. I'd also love to get into the Picketts (Mt. Spickard comes to mind) but we'll see. Maybe that should get its own bullet point ... Oh, and the climb up the Ruth Glacier looks easy but fun (and those are always good, especially when tossed in the mix with some more ambitious stuff mentioned below).

2) Ptarmigan Traverse – this spectacular, week-long-ish traverse (so we'll see about this one – it would seem it could be done in a few days at a good pace which Matthew and I seem to be able to do pretty consistently) covers some of the most amazing country in all of the North Cascades. It starts at the esteemed (and rightly so) Cascade Pass trailhead in the heart of North Cascades National Park and puts you in climbing shot of such peaks as Magic Mountain, Mount Formidable, Dome Peak, Mix-Up Peak and others – all incredible summits. This is definitely quite high on the list.

3) Mount Rainier – Matthew and I will try this most likely via the Kautz Glacier, although if we're super-ambitious we may give a go at the Tahoma Glacier route (although he tried that once and it's a long approach and his group didn't make the summit, so I'm guessing he'll want a more sure-fire way of getting up and as long as we don't do the DC route I'm good). This time – although I loved having climbed this in one go overnight – we'll take two days for acclimatization (which is typically a good thing to have – acclimatization, that is).

4) Stuart Range traverse – let me just say up front ... no plans on duping what Peter Croft did (the entire range in, um, a day after free-soloing the North Ridge route on Stuart – one of the most under-rated but impressive alpine feats of all time). I'll have to look into detailed routes up the north face of Stuart (cos coming from the south, which would be much more doable, means a car is a looong ways away .... however, if Matthew and I each drove, we could easily run up Cascadian Couloir, tag Stuart's summit, then head over for Sherpa, Argonaunt, Colchuck, Dragontail, Annapurna and then – in Croft tradition – jog out Snow Lakes for a burger at the Heidelburger). Hmm, two days – three max I'd like to think. So long weekend, maybe. Sweet. Oh, and here is a good traverse website.

5) The Enchantments – of course. Will go solo and take my chances again on the lottery (knocking on wood now). Must keep further details of this trip highly secretive as to keep down the crowds.

6) Bonanza Peak – this is killer cos the approach entails a trip on the 'Lady of the Lake' ferry on Lake Chelan (in the heart of the North Cascades and super-remote) to the picturesque alpine town of Holden (whose, yes, only approach is via this ferry). Its flanked with glaciers and the views are astounding (from pics I've seen). The climb looks challenging, as well.

7) Sahale Peak – again, this time for the summit instead of twenty-feet below and approaching across Boston Basin and the Quien Sabe glacier for a better chance since it would seem this is the walk-up method (well, after having crossed the glacier). I do love this mountain – it is quite beautiful.

8) Wedge Mountain – quick little scramble just for a unique view into the Enchantments.

9) Cashmere Mountain – this is a possible trip with J later in the summer (West Ridge description here). Mostly for a great view of the entire Stuart range. But also would make a fun little overnight outing, camping at the Caroline Lakes.

10) Whitehorse Mountain – this is an impressive and (granted, this may just be my perception) possibly a rather oft-overlooked peak in the Monte Cristo range of the North Cascades. It has spectacular exposure, a short approach (although lots of elevation gain quickly), glaciers – the works. And it's a beautiful mountain.

OK, will add more later. Like I am still deciding if J and I should go north to the Canadian Rockies or back down to perhaps the Palisades area of the Sierras this summer (in either case, we're either hitting up Silverwood park in Idaho or Magic Mountain in LA for some roller coaster action).

3 comments:

Mark said...

Nice list. The Ptarmigan Traverse is on my life list of traverses (that and the Pickets traverse and the Bailey). But not this year too many other things.

Hood next week.
Rainier in July and maybe just maybe the Tetons..... I'm hoping to get to the Enchantments this fall, I missed it the last.

thom said...

Good luck and safe journey on Hood, Mark!

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